Vietnam

War? What war? An uneducated Phileas could quite easily have traversed the length of Vietnam totally unaware that any GI or B52s had ever pounded this country. The scars are there obviously, but you have to look for them, and look hard. As the south was `liberated` from war and despotism, Communist Vietnam has moved forward into a modern age. On the face of it, this Communism would work in Western Europe - businesses making money, nationals with jobs and possessions. Crossing from Cambodia, the roads improve immediately and the road users display a heightened sense of fashion. Yet on closer inspecktion, and conversation with those more familiar with the status quo, the State is not so attractive. An obsession with visitors` passports may be understandable, confiscation of elite wealth hard to bear, but prohibition of local presence from international churches is simply revealing and damning.

Vietnam seems pragmatic. Whilst not appreciating foreign ideas and habits, it is very willing to tolerate them for their dollars. Yet, whereas Thailand is ready for business, Vietnam is simply ready to make money. It was a very clever salesman who convinced a whole nation that pyjamas were desireable daywear. As of yet, however, no-one has managed to sufficiently extol the virtues of nappies. It also never ceased to astonish Phileas how successful business identities or brands could be so unashamedly stolen: five Sinh Cafe travel agencies on the same road, three Camilla hotels on the same block and countless `legitimate` copy DVD shops around town. Share and share alike?

Vietnam is the country of the ubiquitous conical hat; it is where delivery trucks comically reverse to the tune of `Happy Birthday` and `Memories`; it is where children can only go to school for half a day because there aren`t enough schools, but it is where exercise is for everyone and old women play badminton roadside at 6am daily. Vietnam is where the phrase "`Ello Moto?" must surely originate.

For the tourist, Vietnam is a splendid place - diverse, comfortable, accessible and cheap! Yet with a limited beaten track, it can also be a very social place. Phileas will always remember with happiness the faces of people who happened to be going the same direction, who then had time to become friends.