The Verdict

It was early morning. Very early. Too early. The conscious mind had not long been working and was now asked to think fast and with alacrity. Thus, you can presume we weren't in a restaurant, having already eaten by this time and making a hasty thoughtless exit.

Nor were we at a temple, unless our abode is a temple. Nonetheless, we didn't have our shoes on at the time when there was a knock at the door.

"The bus is here!" A shout at the door. The shower stopped, the alarm levels rose. False information on reception's part had us believe we had an extra half hour. There remains two possibilities. Key or laundry?

Speedily, clothes were donned, possessions and passports were gathered and Phileas combed his hair. After a deep breath, we boarded the bus bound for Dalat, some 300km away. Even aboard, our criminal activities were still hidden to us.

And so, with reparation to the soul, we offer many many many apologies to the size 10 lady who is now bereft of her possibly favourite pair of skin coloured knickers and special romantic pair of love-heart socks.

Mr Phileas' fault entirely! He really must learn to pay more attention to what his wife is wearing, and has worn, when collecting the laundry. Then again, set a man to do a woman's job... ;-)

And of the key? Safely left at Hong Di Bungalows, although Trent and Sarah cannot say that! Fortunately, we were able to escort them on their 300km return journey to make sure they did manage to return their key!

Did you know...?

Did you know Vietnam is a strong producer of coffee?


Did you know this is what Mocha berries look like?


Did you know coffee berries are rather tasty?


Did you know what fresh coffee beans look like?


Did you know this is how the Vietnamese dry theirs beans?


Did you know Vietnamese-style coffee is awful? Unless you like very strong, thick, black coffee that is. I asked for white coffee - got a black coffee with shot of condensed milk. After adding the milk, the coffee remained a very dark black. I drank it. Didn't want to waste my 30p.

All in a day's work...in Vietnam?

In the jeep at 4.30am heading for the sunrise.


Sand sledging with the locals.


And having more fun!


A scramble in the Red Canyon.


To the fishing village to watch the ladies hard at work.
(Yes they really do wear those hats everywhere!)

'Nam!

So, we hear there's been floods in Vietnam. Well, we were caught up in one in Saigon but our's was much more minuscule and vastly more enjoyable. As the water came down and the levels on the street rose, we decided not to leave our nice little enclave and have another drink.



At the Franco-Viet bar we practiced our language skills and met a nice array of people. Together we whittled away the hours, lifting our footwear in unison as the cars', motos ' and cyclo rickshaws' bow waves came up the patio. Five hours came and went. The water had disappeared as if never there and we strolled back to our guesthouse full of the delights of Saigon.

Cambodia

Our trip around Cambodia has not been extensive but Phileas has viewed enough not to know how to feel towards it. Or rather, there are many conflicting attitudes which leave a firm conclusion impossible.



The achievements of the Khmers' ancestors at splendid Angkor and the resulting pride afford admiration for the people. Yet the modern day apathy of a ntion towards building a future in the new capital receives no praise.

Cambodia is a country which has stirred many emotions in Phileas. The simple lifestyle encountered in the north, particularly in the stilted village, oozes a sense of love and community which is seldom sampled in the UK. Cliche or not, the phrase "having so little, yet having so much" does now hold so much more meaning. Cambodia is a country that you could hug for its rustic charm. It is a country you could pity for the mutilations inflicted on innocents by landmines, the Khmer Rouge regime and needless disease. It is a country you can be frustrated by due to its inability to care for those very same people. There is irritation at the corruption of police and public servants but also bemusement that they are paid so little and resort to haggling their 'fee'! Phileas was impressed by amiable natures which gave out a smile and bore no grudges against obstructions in the road.

Phnom Penh can seemlike a city run on insanity but what you don't know can't hurt you and its population ride around in peaceful oblivion.



In short, Cambodia is a country which perhaps simply needs educating; not in emotions - it has and gives plenty, but in its sytems. Security guards dressed in military-style uniforms protecting homes and businesses (whether they are open or not) are a sugnal of mistrust. Rollercoaster roads potholed and flooded embody an unreliability. Unearthed electrics, well, they are a great uncertainty!

Maybe Cambodia needs educating in order to reverse these negative impressions and reveal its true persona - one of a nation of shiny, happy people.

Techno Monk

Is this the rebirth of Cambodia's technological development?

A situation which made me chuckle at the time and a photo which still tickels me now! By the way, he was surfing for anti-virus software (not that I was being nosey!)

Phnom Penh

Domesticity in Cambodia - home made yoghurt!



Security is a key issue in Phnom Penh - check out the guard!

When in Phnom Penh, do as the locals do!

It was great to have a different experience whilst on this trip: meeting lovely people who work out here but are not necessarily from these 'ere parts! We were very hospitably put up by Dave, who showed us round the incredible, if a bit bizarre at times, sights. But we didn't lose our pathfinder way and took him to new locations in deepest backpacker land!

Thank you to him and everyone else who was so welcoming and friendly, making our stay in Cambodia's capital very memorable and pleasant indeed!

"It's a small world!"

Due to that early start, the temples took on different atmospheres from the previous day. On Monday 1st Oct, we accompanied a steady stream of visitors to Ta Prohm before lunch. As we arrived at 7am the next day, the temple reclaimed by nature was a haven of peace and reflection. And then, entering the courtyard… “No, it’s not him is it?”




Isn’t it amazing how you can be so far from home and yet meet someone from home?!

We’re wondering how many people we’ve actually missed as this was the third incident which leads one to cry “It’s a small world!”

Dubai – share a car with the Wilsons (knowledge of mutual people in Keswick School and locality)
Thailand – meet Anna, a friend from Carlisle
Cambodia – meet Ben, a friend who lives in London

Can there be any more small world occasions? Well, when you’re in the capital of Cambodia and you’re taken to someone’s house for a meal and you can have a conversation about Aspatria because they’ve been there and have a cousin living there, I think there already has been!

Templeton Peck

Arrived in Cambodia and hit the ground running. There are hundreds of temples at Angkor in the north of Cambodia but after two daze, we had been up and down, along and back, in and out of enough temples to get the gist. Tomb Raiders we were.

After arriving at the airport (I know we said we weren’t flying again till 2nd Nov, but we did!) we were transferred to our colonial guesthouse by a friendly tuk-tuk driver. It took a while to realise that it was the custom for him to attach himself to his newest customers until his services were no longer required! Thus, we had acquired our own private chauffeur for ₤7 a day. We loved it! Perhaps we should have disciplined him early on the second day though when he slept in, causing us to miss the first rays of light appearing over Angkor Wat. Yes! We got up for a 5am start!! Maybe we should have sacked him when he left us at the side of the road to go and fix a flat tyre. But where’s the fun in that?! And besides, we had the privilege of riding in the slowest tuk-tuk in Cambodia – even lacerations from my whip did not encourage Nuk to prevent a fully laden tuk-tuk of four gleeful Koreans overtake us at a pace.

Thailand

After Inspecktion, Bangkok seems a city with style; an efficient business, entertainment and transport centre with character. The southern coasts are welcoming, humble places which are made easy to travel by obliging locals.

This has been a small taste of the diversity that goes into Thailand’s make-up. Thailand has a great range of choices for the visitor. Whether these choices are available to nationals is another matter. From Phileas’ point of view, options are presented everywhere from sleeping, eating and drinking through to shopping, transport and entertainment. It’s so easy to stumble out of a luxury hotel costing ₤125, eat Pad Thai on the street for 50p and have a short taxi ride or bus to the other end of the country for around ₤8.

Thailand has developed and its society has stretched. ‘Progress’ has not been so prolonged to lose the smaller, independent family traders who offer good products in return for a worthwhile lifestyle. However, ‘progress’ has not been so effective as to create a consistent culture of health and hygiene. Stray cats and dogs visit mid-range restaurants and chicken carcasses are left to the midday sun. Soap and water, safety instructions and equipment? You make your free choice and take your chances. In many ways it beats the pervasive fear of risk now lingering in the West.

Thailand is not a manicured land but has natural beauty in abundance; too much to see in any visit, and (unfortunately) too common for Man to appreciate fully after a week. Phileas has to consciously remind himself that finding limestone cliffs, turquoise seas and long sandy beaches lined with palm orchards is not an everyday occurrence, and he should be thankful for having such an opportunity. Phileas is thankful but also in a state of great turmoil. Whilst he loves to be in such an environment, he has also noticed the steady degradation of nature by Man. Roads, hotels, bungalows, cafes, boats and bars all to serve the visitor – Phileas. Hating the problem but being a part of it.

If only Thailand had remained a secret, we could’ve all enjoyed the scenery as it was meant to be, although we should likely have never seen it at all. It only remains for the Thais to share their secret responsibly. Unfortunately, in many areas, the allure of farang cash is greater than the instinct to preserve why the farang are coming in the first place. The tsunami of 2004 gave the government a chance to plan for the future. Maybe next time.

Some places, however, will always be attractive no matter how hard Man tries to make money or fails to understand. There will always be somewhere to go in Thailand which will make you smile, and perhaps feature in your own perfect day.

Phileas