Beijing and a bit

Anyone of a sensitive nature may well arrive hating Beijing and never get over it. London is dirty, overcrowded and contains 24 micrograms of particles of pollution per cubic metre. Beijing has an astonishing 142. This is some indication of the density of smog through which Phileas had to descend in order to touch down in his aircraft, which sublimely added to the cause. Yet this was not reason to be prejudiced, for only half of Phileas is asthmatic.



China was expected to be colder than what we had experienced before but we never thought we'd have chance to walk on a frozen lake! Brilliant!!

From thousands of years of proud history, Phileas is ashamed to admit that he can but recognise and name only a handful of Chinese. So what a blessing it was to be met by one of these illuminaries - a perfectly smiley Jackie Chan! His genial character successfully set to work welcoming visitors. Unfortunately, cheery characters aren't quite as evident as those posters lining the arrivals tunnels. The service industry in Beijing leaves a lot to be desired. Obviously, Phileas cannot resent the lack of English when his own Mandarin routine faulters after 'Ni hao' and 'Xie xie'. But a smile goes a long way, or rather it would. Perhaps it already left in the Cultural Revolution. From services dedicated to tourists, Phileas would hope for a little more than bare rooms with a couple of racks of mostly Chinese literature. And be sure that no allowance is made for the British propensity to queue. Not to worry, it all adds to Beijing's independent and unique atmosphere.



Tiananmen Square, facing the Gate of Heavenly Peace, through which to enter the Forbidden City. The largest public space in the world, this is the place to feel the police state: security guards on every corner and subway, random bag checks, a great big Maosoleum, a military flag lowering ceremony and a closure after 8pm.

With its Soviet style architecture, power-seeking boulevards and omnipresent security, central Beijing makes an immediate impact. It is a place of note, perhaps backdrop to that scene in your life where you act out a spy drama. It is somewhere worth going even if not all the accompanying feelings are entirely pleasant. But beyond the Communist facade and the sullen faces which shamelessly stare at the pale faces, there is a Beijing as alluring as any major city in the world. Everyday, Phileas managed to discover a new aspect of this bustling capital city.



A walk down the side of the Forbidden Palace walls coming back from the central shopping district.

With massive renovation and building works it has as modern as modern can be; despite clearance, the city also still contains charming historic hutong alleys. Shopping emporiums are balanced by street markets and vendors whilst road arteries surround Imperial enclaves and parks. It is a gateway to the Great Wall - a perfect name for an indescribable scene.



Massive areas of central Beijing are subject to clearance. Phileas was guided on a walking tour by Lonely Planet (published Aug 2007) only to find the historic alley reduced to rubble. A man was on guard and prevented Phileas taking the 'inappropriate' photograph.



A 10km walk along the Great Wall. It is just a wall but somehow it deserves to be seen from space.

Phileas has had a wonderful time in and around old Peking and new Beijing. It may have a strange government which labours on its popular roots but pays extraordinary tribute to a corpse 28 years dead; its citizens may have entered its streets into the Guinness Book of Records as the largest spittoon in the world; it may have pedestrian crossings whose only conceivable role is to improve your insurance claims when you get run over, but unless you get caught in the tea scam, you shouldn't have any regrets in popping in to the centre of this new Chinese Dynasty.




Phileas, who is either:

Mad or Mao - ?

Better red than dead.

OLYMPICS 2008

Imagine someone has invited friends and acquaintances round for a dinner party...and then realised there's work to be done. House renovations, DIY, cleaning, meal preparation, clothes to iron. Not that this feels familiar :-). So much to do, so little time. It may even get done but in all the hurry and intensity nobody bothered to notice that the table wasn't set and the menu wasn't in English.

Into the light

Like exiting a tunnel and speeding onto the information super-highway once again! We are back!!

And just for Tommy and Joe, there'll be a Beijing summary very soon!

Sianara?

Well, we fly to Beijing tomorrow morning. Having experienced problems accessing this site in central Vietnam, we`re not too confident in being able to break through the Great Firewall of China so we may have to wait until Hong Kong, or even democratic Australia before updating.

All shall be revealed..

But don`t you stop writing comments and e-mails, all you free people of the world!!

Love to you all!

Phileas

Japan

Someone once told Phileas that Japan was in Asia. He believed it. Phileas now knows that to be false. Apart from the obvious racial similarities, which need not be explained, Phileas sees very little likeness with the other countries that were said to be of the same continent. Mind you, they do all speak unfathomable languages, leaving Phileas an incompetent fool who cannot read a single word.

Japan is a country where visiting may destroy certain perceptions, myths and fantasies. Far from shoguns, samurai, habitual aggression and ritual suicide, Japan is an oasis of calm and refreshment. A certain guidebook, scrambling for something to say on the subject, lists losing patience on the rush-hour subway and street announcements under `Dangers and Annoyances`! (Phileas finds pedestrian crossing ringtones actually quite amusing!) This, opposed to the normal scams, pickpockets and muggings of Asia, speaks volumes. A hundred percent hassle free, even Japan`s insects have abided by the code and left Phileas without a single bite. Somehow, even the traffic seems to keep to a respectful noise limit. Modern, organised and extremely pleasant - I`m not saying Japan is better, but it is if you like that sort of thing.

Japan`s a great place to be in Autumn. Bright red maple leaves everywhere and a host of other seasonal colours.

There is a phrase, "oitsuke, oikose" (catch up, overtake). Indeed, they may well have done. In many ways, it is the type of place the UK could be if it consolidated and exubed a common identity and people were more intent on keeping the place clean.

So what is it that makes Japan so special? In Phileas` eyes, it is the way traditional culture, disciplined modernity and impressive natural surroundings knit together - all well balanced and in harmony. Respect for the thousands of temples and shrines permeates the nation, taxi drivers clad in dark suits and donning white gloves wait patiently for business, young people with surprisingly funky hairstyles walk happily together and forest swathed mountains flow the length of the country.

Fascinating as it is, Japanese culture is as inpenetrable to a visitor, nay any non-Sino native, as the exclusive tea house which lines many an aged street. It is only the Japanese themselves who find normality where Phileas and others find amusement, bewilderment and general naivety. How a nation, bowing to visitors as though Royalty, can see weeing on the street as acceptable (as long as they are drunk) is bizarre. Eating on the street is disgraceful but vending machines line every road. Businessmen think nothing of introducing the latest technology to toilet systems (yes, you can press a button which gives a fake flush!) and then sit on the Metro and read the latest comic. That is before their communal bath, of course.

Japan is not a place where you could leave your soul - because your soul knows it will never belong there. Nor can Japan truly be described but you`re sure to recognise it when you see it. All you can do, as Phileas has done, is to view, interact, enjoy, appreciate and hope there`ll be another time.

A walk in the woods

There`s all sorts of wildlife in Japan.



Most of it`s been scared away whilst we`ve been out.

Japan and no escape

An evening with the Fordyces

Another nice welcome to a family home in a foreign place - Hiroshima. And an introduction to newcomer to the world, Jamie.


An introduction to Sushi on account of the hospitality of Ken and Mariella! No, we weren't salivating at the prospect of raw fish but...


It tasted so good, we were soon graduating onto Salmon eggs. Tasted OK, just not a nice sensation when they pop in your mouth!

Japaneseyness

All dressed up for a traditional Shinto 'rites of passage' ceremony and Mum just can't resist performing another ritual - the photographic Vs!


The Shinto Head Honcho or Big Wig.


Four lucky Geishas out with their elderly client, escorted by...a works construction labourer, protesting at the fact that his wages couldn't afford one Geisha.


"If you can give me one good reason why we shouldn't wear this uniform, I want to hear it now."


On Miyajima, the gate is more accessible when the tide's out but it doesn't look as good.


Five stories, always five stories.

The ultimate history experience?

You can read about it. You can watch films and TV documentaries about it. You can learn about it and try to understand it. You can even teach it. But when you are in the midst of a new city, face to face with a building that just about survived a real atomic attack, there is a new connection with the past and the face of humanity.

To reflect on the fact that it is this very spot that displays Man`s extreme aggression, coupled with being witness to the many symbolic acts of remembrance and peace in the surrounding park, is an almost overwhelming experience. It was one very good reason (if Phileas needed another) to be on this trip.

In the park, Nara.


Bamboo groves, near Kyoto.

Over the sea and far away

Now in Japan. What a difference! We have found a haven of peace and tranquility, polite good manners and pristine urban areas. Prices may have been a shock to the system coming from South East Asia but we are just about sticking to budget, helped by the new experience of dormitory life.

Got to go, we are hungry and have supernoodles waiting...

Vietnam

War? What war? An uneducated Phileas could quite easily have traversed the length of Vietnam totally unaware that any GI or B52s had ever pounded this country. The scars are there obviously, but you have to look for them, and look hard. As the south was `liberated` from war and despotism, Communist Vietnam has moved forward into a modern age. On the face of it, this Communism would work in Western Europe - businesses making money, nationals with jobs and possessions. Crossing from Cambodia, the roads improve immediately and the road users display a heightened sense of fashion. Yet on closer inspecktion, and conversation with those more familiar with the status quo, the State is not so attractive. An obsession with visitors` passports may be understandable, confiscation of elite wealth hard to bear, but prohibition of local presence from international churches is simply revealing and damning.

Vietnam seems pragmatic. Whilst not appreciating foreign ideas and habits, it is very willing to tolerate them for their dollars. Yet, whereas Thailand is ready for business, Vietnam is simply ready to make money. It was a very clever salesman who convinced a whole nation that pyjamas were desireable daywear. As of yet, however, no-one has managed to sufficiently extol the virtues of nappies. It also never ceased to astonish Phileas how successful business identities or brands could be so unashamedly stolen: five Sinh Cafe travel agencies on the same road, three Camilla hotels on the same block and countless `legitimate` copy DVD shops around town. Share and share alike?

Vietnam is the country of the ubiquitous conical hat; it is where delivery trucks comically reverse to the tune of `Happy Birthday` and `Memories`; it is where children can only go to school for half a day because there aren`t enough schools, but it is where exercise is for everyone and old women play badminton roadside at 6am daily. Vietnam is where the phrase "`Ello Moto?" must surely originate.

For the tourist, Vietnam is a splendid place - diverse, comfortable, accessible and cheap! Yet with a limited beaten track, it can also be a very social place. Phileas will always remember with happiness the faces of people who happened to be going the same direction, who then had time to become friends.

Work ethic

Is this the real reason Vietnam is not a superpower?

Flag bearer

Seek and ye shall find!

Every last drop!

Tour Oｆ Ｄｕｔｙ：The Hunt Ｆｏｒ Ｃｈａｒｌie

(To be read in hushed American tones)

He`d been missing since `75, the close of the war. Maybe he hadn`t heard, maybe he didn`t care. I wasn`t privileged to that information. All I knew was that I`d been ordered across the demiltarized zone in an attempt to extract Charlie and reintegrate him to society...



I follwed the old woman along the coast. There was something suspicious about her that I couldn`t shake off. She just kinda looked outta place...



I found the tunnels early afternoon. Of course! The old Viet Cong tunnels!! Where better place to hide than the last place to be devastated by bombs? What better place to be lost than a network of deep tunnels abandoned to the musty air?

The idea of booby traps did nothing to ease my mind as I stooped and stumbled forward. I descended into Hell, not knowing what Charlie had in store...



The groans became louder as I penetrated deeper into the labyrinth. What sort of creature had Charlie become? How had this life of sensory deprivation affected this poor soul?

And there he was, like a cornered rabbit caught in a flashlight. I`d been ordered to get him out, or end the story, and fast, before I too was called MIA and left for dead. Charlie twitched as I reached into my pocket. If he wasn`t prepared to be my friend, he`d have to be my enemy...



We`re all friends now!