Beijing and a bit

Anyone of a sensitive nature may well arrive hating Beijing and never get over it. London is dirty, overcrowded and contains 24 micrograms of particles of pollution per cubic metre. Beijing has an astonishing 142. This is some indication of the density of smog through which Phileas had to descend in order to touch down in his aircraft, which sublimely added to the cause. Yet this was not reason to be prejudiced, for only half of Phileas is asthmatic.



China was expected to be colder than what we had experienced before but we never thought we'd have chance to walk on a frozen lake! Brilliant!!

From thousands of years of proud history, Phileas is ashamed to admit that he can but recognise and name only a handful of Chinese. So what a blessing it was to be met by one of these illuminaries - a perfectly smiley Jackie Chan! His genial character successfully set to work welcoming visitors. Unfortunately, cheery characters aren't quite as evident as those posters lining the arrivals tunnels. The service industry in Beijing leaves a lot to be desired. Obviously, Phileas cannot resent the lack of English when his own Mandarin routine faulters after 'Ni hao' and 'Xie xie'. But a smile goes a long way, or rather it would. Perhaps it already left in the Cultural Revolution. From services dedicated to tourists, Phileas would hope for a little more than bare rooms with a couple of racks of mostly Chinese literature. And be sure that no allowance is made for the British propensity to queue. Not to worry, it all adds to Beijing's independent and unique atmosphere.



Tiananmen Square, facing the Gate of Heavenly Peace, through which to enter the Forbidden City. The largest public space in the world, this is the place to feel the police state: security guards on every corner and subway, random bag checks, a great big Maosoleum, a military flag lowering ceremony and a closure after 8pm.

With its Soviet style architecture, power-seeking boulevards and omnipresent security, central Beijing makes an immediate impact. It is a place of note, perhaps backdrop to that scene in your life where you act out a spy drama. It is somewhere worth going even if not all the accompanying feelings are entirely pleasant. But beyond the Communist facade and the sullen faces which shamelessly stare at the pale faces, there is a Beijing as alluring as any major city in the world. Everyday, Phileas managed to discover a new aspect of this bustling capital city.



A walk down the side of the Forbidden Palace walls coming back from the central shopping district.

With massive renovation and building works it has as modern as modern can be; despite clearance, the city also still contains charming historic hutong alleys. Shopping emporiums are balanced by street markets and vendors whilst road arteries surround Imperial enclaves and parks. It is a gateway to the Great Wall - a perfect name for an indescribable scene.



Massive areas of central Beijing are subject to clearance. Phileas was guided on a walking tour by Lonely Planet (published Aug 2007) only to find the historic alley reduced to rubble. A man was on guard and prevented Phileas taking the 'inappropriate' photograph.



A 10km walk along the Great Wall. It is just a wall but somehow it deserves to be seen from space.

Phileas has had a wonderful time in and around old Peking and new Beijing. It may have a strange government which labours on its popular roots but pays extraordinary tribute to a corpse 28 years dead; its citizens may have entered its streets into the Guinness Book of Records as the largest spittoon in the world; it may have pedestrian crossings whose only conceivable role is to improve your insurance claims when you get run over, but unless you get caught in the tea scam, you shouldn't have any regrets in popping in to the centre of this new Chinese Dynasty.




Phileas, who is either:

Mad or Mao - ?

Better red than dead.

OLYMPICS 2008

Imagine someone has invited friends and acquaintances round for a dinner party...and then realised there's work to be done. House renovations, DIY, cleaning, meal preparation, clothes to iron. Not that this feels familiar :-). So much to do, so little time. It may even get done but in all the hurry and intensity nobody bothered to notice that the table wasn't set and the menu wasn't in English.